This is a selected form of our native hydrangea, chosen by Dr. Michael Dirr for its long, 10" - 14" flower heads (with individual florets the size of a half dollar), boldly sculptured leaves, brilliant color in autumn, and handsome peeling bark. The flowers are white on opening, turning gradually to rosy pink. The show goes on until snow or your flower arranging friends finish them off. This is a substantial plant, ultimately reaching 12' in the South. It thrives in Full Sun to Moderate Shade.
PRUNING THE OAKLEAF HYDRANGEA: This hydrangea doesn’t require a lot of pruning but it should be trimmed at least once a year to keep it looking in good condition. Less pruning is actually better when it comes to oakleaf hydrangeas. WHEN TO PRUNE THE OAKLEAF HYDRANGEA: You can prune your oakleaf hydrangea from late winter to early spring, although March tends to be the best time – particularly if you are trying to rejuvenate your hydrangea. HOW TO PRUNE YOUR OAKLEAF HYDRANGEA: You should start by removing faded flowerheads in spring after the frost. Cut back the flowered stems to a strong pair of buds and take out any diseased shoots.
If your oakleaf hydrangea has grown too big for your liking, or is becoming too woody, cut it right back. Make cuts at the base of each branch where it meets the main stalk – making sure you step back to keep an eye on the overall shape and prune from all sides to keep it balanced. It will regrow in the summer with new branches and then flower right away.
Frost damaged, diseased or dead branches are best cut as far back to the healthy part of the branch, or main stem, as possible.
You can always snip off the overblown flowers on your oakleaf hydrangea in autumn and winter - just don’t prune when frost is in the forecast.
Photos courtesy of Toms Creek Nursery in Denton, NC
6' - 10'
4' - 8'
Primary Foliage Color
Seasonal Foliage Color
Sun to Partial Shade
Moist (not wet): Ensure planting area provides good drainage. This will help to prevent 'Root Rot'.